September 24, Mekong Delta, Vietnam
After checking out of our Ho Chi Minh City hotel, we all got on the bus to spend the day and night in Cai Be in the Mekong Delta. The day included a tour by boat (including one that was oared by hand to take us through canals), fruit tasting, and a visit to a place that made coconut confections.
Since we had time before breakfast would be served, we started packing. Our guide recommended that we repack into something smaller, and leave the rest of our luggage at the hotel, since we were returning the next day. We were able to fit everything into our backpacks and the tote bags we got for the trip, which worked out well. We then joined a few other people at breakfast. We had seen on the WhatsApp group that the people we left at the beer garden had gone to a rooftop bar afterward; the day before, Lam had said she would take us to a rooftop bar, and we were wondering if it was the same one. We asked some of the people who went and they said the view was fantastic, and they even really liked the music.
As we checked out, the receptionist presented us with a laundry bill for the items we had gotten back the day before. When we got the laundry yesterday, the person behind the desk explained that one of Melody’s shirts got a hole in it, and apologized profusely, telling us that he would not charge us for the laundry. It seems that the message wasn’t passed along, but after a few phone calls, things were cleared up and we were once again told that we would not be charged. We were going to try to do laundry again, but this time the tour arranged for a group price from someone else, so we each gave the person our bag of laundry and then he took them away on his scooter.
As we drove south, we saw several rice paddies, many with grave markers in them. Our guide, Bao, said that it was the custom to bury people where they lived or worked, but now the law is that burials need to be done in cemeteries. Even though there is a law, however, you still see new burials in private places because the custom is so strong, and it will take time for everyone to change. Driving along, we also saw some dragonfruit farms.
We stopped at a rest stop which was more like an enclosed strip mall, with several options for food, snacks, and coffee. After a few minutes, we were back on the road.
As we got closer to the Mekong Delta, Bao explained that it isn’t called a river because it splits so many times. Since it goes to an ocean, it is subject to the normal tides. The water is brown with dirt, but they consider that to be good because it is the soil that enters the delta which helps with farming and fishing. He also pointed out cafés by the road that had hammocks, so people could lie in those while having coffee.
Once we got to Cai Be, we took our things onto a boat that started taking us along the delta until we reached some of the smaller canals. Smaller boats propelled by oars approached us, and we split up into three different boats. As we sat down, we were given conical hats to wear as we meandered through the canals. The boat was very narrow and rode quite low in the water, but didn’t feel like it was going to tip over. After we got back on the larger boat, the woman who oared our boat continued to oar away from us for a while, then swung her motor into the water to go to the pick-up point again.
Once we exited the canals, we got back onto the larger boats and went to a shop where we could sample different tropical fruits. As we ate, people played music and acted out various scenes. After the performance, one of the performers showed people how to play one instrument which has just one string. You pluck it at different points to make the tone, and there was a lever where you could make the string tighter or looser to slightly vary the pitch. We then did a quick walk through the gardens behind the building.
The next stop was for lunch. We were served elephant ear fish which was rolled into spring rolls, as well as soup and other sides. We also walked around the building, which was quite ornate.
Back to the boat so we could go to a place where coconut candy is made. Our boat started to pull up to the stairs up to the store, but the tide was out so far that the boat couldn’t get close enough. Bao and the driver conferred a bit and decided to go to a different place to sample coconut candy, which ended up being quite a long ride before we got there.
We walked up to the store, walked by the jars of snake wine (more on that later), and then went to where treats were made. Most of the workers were on break, but one showed us how they make popped rice in a wok with sand.
We were then shown how, after coconuts have been dried for a year, they are peeled and shredded. Milk is expressed from the coconut flesh and then is cooked down with various flavorings. Once it is thick, it’s cooled enough so it can be poured into long forms and then cut. Each piece is wrapped in rice paper and then regular paper.
We then went to tables where samples of various confections were laid out, including popped rice, dried bananas, ginger, and puffed tapioca.
On our way out, we walked by a small rice wine distiller and then looked at jars of rice wine. There were several being infused with fruits, and some that had snakes in them. There were also some small jars of various wines from a commercial producer, so several people tried the snake wine. If you want, you can purchase a small bottle of snake wine with a python in it.
It was back to the boat, and this time a short trip to where we would be staying. Unfortunately, the low tide prevented the boat from going up the channel, so we went around to a place where the boat could park, and then we walked a short way to our homestay.
We were assigned rooms, each with lots of fans and mosquito nets over the beds. After we settled in, some people gathered in the common area. I took a bit of time to hang out in a hammock.
Melody and I did a little bit of walking in the area, and when we got back, we joined the people in the common area. Some started playing a card game, which became very lively. Bao joined us and mentioned that there might be fireflies out; sure enough, we readily saw some. It was soon time for dinner, so we moved to the set table.
Several courses were brought over, including whole grilled snapper. The courses kept coming, including a Vietnamese pancake, lemongrass chicken, and pasta with pork sauce. We finished with fruit which is similar to lychee but has smooth skin.
We chatted around the table for a while, and then one by one we headed towards our rooms.
